Wallpaper Removal: How to Strip It Without Wrecking the Wall

Removing wallpaper ranges from a pleasant afternoon to a multi-day battle, depending on the paper, the adhesive and, most of all, what's underneath. The goal isn't just to get the paper off. It's to end up with walls that can be painted and look smooth.

Figure out what you're dealing with

Strippable, peelable or traditional?

Lift a corner at a seam with a putty knife and pull slowly.

• Strippable paper comes off in full sheets, leaving little behind.
• Peelable paper lets you pull off the top vinyl layer, leaving a paper backing on the wall that must be soaked and scraped.
• Traditional paper tears into small pieces and needs soaking all over.

What's the wall made of?

Plaster walls, common in older homes, tolerate water and scraping well. Drywall is a different story: its surface is paper, and if the wallpaper was hung directly on unprimed drywall, the adhesive may be bonded into that paper. Aggressive soaking and scraping then tears the drywall's face paper. Tap the wall and look at an outlet cutout (with the power off) to see what's behind the paper.

Are there layers?

Older homes sometimes have two or three layers of paper, or paper that has been painted over. Painted wallpaper resists water, so it needs scoring or a stronger approach.

Tools and supplies

• Plastic sheeting and drop cloths, and painter's tape to protect the floor and baseboards
• A wide putty knife or a dedicated wallpaper scraper with rounded corners
• A scoring tool for papers with vinyl or painted surfaces (use it gently; deep scoring damages drywall)
• A garden sprayer or sponge and hot water, plus a wallpaper remover or a little dish soap
• A wallpaper steamer for stubborn traditional paper on plaster
• Buckets, sponges and rags for cleaning off adhesive

Turn off power to outlets and switches in the room and cover them, because you'll be using a lot of water.

How to remove wallpaper step by step

1. Shut off power to the room's outlets and switches, remove the cover plates, and tape over the boxes.
2. Protect floors with plastic covered by absorbent drop cloths, and tape plastic along the baseboards.
3. Try dry stripping first: lift a corner and pull the paper back slowly at a low angle.
4. If the paper has a vinyl or painted face, score it lightly so water can get through.
5. Soak a section of wall with hot water and remover, wait for the backing to soften, and soak again.
6. Scrape gently with the blade held low, working with the softened paper rather than digging into the wall.
7. Use a steamer on stubborn areas over plaster, keeping it moving to avoid damaging the wall.
8. Wash the walls with hot water to remove all adhesive residue, rinsing your sponge often.
9. Let the walls dry thoroughly, ideally overnight or longer.
10. Repair damage, seal any torn drywall paper, and prime before painting.

Torn drywall paper: the classic problem

If the brown paper of the drywall shows or fuzzes up when you scrape, stop soaking that area. Water on exposed drywall paper makes it bubble and tear further. Let it dry, then seal the area with an oil-based or shellac-based primer or a specialty sealer made for damaged drywall. Once sealed, you can skim coat with joint compound, sand smooth and prime again. Painting latex directly onto torn drywall paper makes it bubble.

Getting the adhesive off

Wallpaper paste left on the wall is a hidden problem. It looks fine, but latex paint over paste residue can crack, wrinkle or peel. Wash until the wall no longer feels slick or tacky when wet. One test: let the wall dry, then wipe a small area with a damp sponge. If it feels slippery, there's still paste. After washing, an oil-based or shellac-based primer is a good insurance policy before painting, especially if you suspect residue.

When wallpaper should stay

Sometimes removing paper does more harm than good, particularly paper hung directly on unsealed drywall in a room you plan to cover. Professionals sometimes leave well-bonded paper in place, seal it with an oil-based primer, skim the seams and paint over it. This is a judgment call: it works when the paper is tightly bonded everywhere, and it can fail where seams or edges are loose.

Lead and older homes

Wallpaper itself rarely contains lead, but in homes built before 1978 there may be lead paint underneath or on top of the paper. Scraping, sanding or steaming those layers can disturb it. See our lead-safe renovation guide.

Preparing for paint

After removal, inspect the walls under raking light from a work lamp. Fill gouges, skim rough areas, sand smooth and prime the whole wall with the right primer. Then follow the steps in interior painting like a pro.