Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) has become one of the most popular floors in the Upper Midwest because it's water-resistant, comfortable, realistic-looking and tough. There are two main ways to install it: glue-down, where thin "dryback" planks are bonded to the subfloor with adhesive, and click (also called click-lock or floating), where thicker planks lock together and float over the subfloor. Both are good floors. They behave differently, and the right choice depends on your room.
The two types in a sentence each
Glue-down (dryback) LVP is a thin, flexible vinyl plank, typically just a few millimeters thick, that's fully adhered to a flat, smooth subfloor with flooring adhesive.
Click LVP is a thicker plank, often with a rigid core (SPC, stone-plastic composite, or WPC, wood-plastic composite), that snaps together at the edges and floats over the subfloor and an underlayment without being fastened down.
Side-by-side comparison
| Factor | Glue-down (dryback) | Click (floating) |
|---|---|---|
| Thickness | Thin; minimal height change at doorways | Thicker; may need transitions and door trimming |
| Subfloor flatness | Very demanding; every bump and dip can telegraph through | More forgiving of minor imperfections, but still needs to meet the maker's flatness spec |
| Large open areas | Excellent; usually no expansion breaks needed | Often needs expansion gaps and sometimes T-moldings at doorways or over long runs (per manufacturer) |
| Sun and heat | Holds better near big windows and in sunrooms | Some floating floors can expand, gap or peak with strong sun and heat |
| Heavy furniture, kitchen islands | Fine; it's bonded down | Floating floors generally shouldn't be pinned under cabinets or islands |
| Rolling loads | Very good | Good, but depends on the product |
| Feel and sound | Solid and quiet, but feels the subfloor | Can sound hollower; underlayment helps |
| Repairs | Individual planks can be cut out and replaced | Planks near walls are easy to replace; middle ones take more work |
| Installation time | More prep and adhesive time | Typically faster |
| Removal later | Harder; adhesive must be scraped | Easier; it unclicks |
Where glue-down shines
- Large, open spaces and long runs, like open main floors, where floating floors might need expansion breaks.
- Rooms with big south or west windows, where heat and direct sun can make floating floors move.
- Kitchens with islands and heavy built-ins, because glue-down can go under cabinets or right up to them without being pinned.
- Commercial or very heavy-use spaces with rolling chairs and carts.
- Places where floor height matters, like where the new floor meets existing tile or hardwood, or under doors you don't want to trim.
- Stairs, where dryback planks are often used with matching stair nose.
Where click shines
- Subfloors that aren't perfect, since rigid cores bridge small dips better (within the manufacturer's flatness limits).
- Basements over concrete, paired with the right vapor barrier or attached pad, when the slab passes moisture testing.
- Faster projects and DIY, since no adhesive is needed.
- Over certain existing hard floors, when the manufacturer allows it.
- Rooms where you may want to change the floor later, because removal is easy.
The subfloor decides more than you think
Glue-down LVP is thin and flexible, so it shows what's underneath. A trowel line, a drywall mud lump, a nail head or a seam in the plywood can all eventually appear as a bump or line, especially in raking light from a window. That's why glue-down installs involve serious subfloor prep: grinding high spots, filling low spots, patching and often skim coating or self-leveling the whole floor. Read our subfloor prep guide for the details.
Click floors are more forgiving but not magic. Most manufacturers specify a maximum variation in flatness (often expressed as a fraction of an inch over a span like 6 or 10 feet). Hollow spots let planks flex, which can stress the locking joints until they separate or break.
Moisture: both types care
Vinyl itself is waterproof, but moisture still matters. On concrete, excess moisture can break down adhesive under glue-down floors and trap moisture under floating floors, leading to mold, odor and adhesive failure. Many adhesive manufacturers specify maximum moisture levels for concrete. That's why concrete slabs should be tested before installing either type. See moisture testing before flooring.
Temperature and acclimation
Vinyl expands and contracts with temperature. Manufacturers specify an installation temperature range and often a period for the flooring and room to stabilize before installation. Glue-down installs also depend on adhesive temperature requirements. Read flooring acclimation for how this works in Wisconsin's seasons.
How glue-down LVP is installed
- Test the subfloor for moisture and confirm it meets the adhesive and flooring manufacturer's limits.
- Remove old flooring, adhesive residue and anything that would prevent a bond.
- Grind high spots and fill low spots, then patch or skim coat the subfloor to make it flat and smooth.
- Clean the subfloor thoroughly so no dust interferes with the adhesive.
- Plan the layout so rows are balanced and cut pieces at walls aren't too narrow.
- Spread the adhesive with the trowel notch the adhesive maker specifies.
- Wait for the adhesive's open or tack time before setting planks, as the instructions require.
- Set the planks tight to each other without stretching or forcing them.
- Roll the floor with a heavy flooring roller in both directions, per the instructions.
- Keep heavy traffic and furniture off until the adhesive has cured as specified, then install trim and transitions.
A note on adhesives
Flooring adhesives come in different types: pressure-sensitive adhesives that stay tacky, wet-set adhesives for a permanent bond, and specialty adhesives for heat, moisture or heavy loads. The flooring manufacturer usually specifies approved adhesives, and using a non-approved one can void the warranty. Trowel notch size, open time, temperature and rolling all matter.
Cost considerations
We don't publish prices here, because every job's scope is different. In general, glue-down planks themselves may cost less than rigid-core click planks, but glue-down installation often involves more labor for subfloor prep and adhesive. Click installation tends to be faster but may need more transitions. Ask for an estimate that separates material, prep and installation so you can compare.
Our honest recommendation
There isn't one universal "better" floor. For large open main floors with lots of sun and kitchen islands, glue-down often performs best. For basements and rooms with less-than-perfect subfloors, a quality click product with proper moisture protection is often the practical choice. Ask your installer why they recommend one over the other for each room. Also read our guide on wear layers, because thickness of the wear layer is a separate decision from installation method.